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Back to Lucca – May 17 to June 13, 2019

In September 2018 Jim and I spent two lovely weeks in Lucca. This trip, I was in Lucca for almost a month; Jim for about 2 weeks. We spent less time visiting the “sites” and more time just “living” in Lucca. Like cooking breakfast, lunch and dinner. Commuting to “work” (our school). And attending a local church. I tried to capture pictures to convey some of the aspects of Lucca that have drawn us here. This blog post will give you a better sense of the city, our progress on learning the language, and an update on our plan to move to Italy.

Lucca – the city

Lucca has several worthwhile “attractions” but the top one is the city itself. It is completely encircled by a massive wall that was built during the Renaissance, but evidence of earlier walls and gates are scattered throughout the city. Within Le Mura (those Renaissance outer walls), the streets and alleys twist and turn and are ideal for wandering. You can’t really get lost – you’ll run into Le Mura sooner or later. The majority of the buildings were built between 1200 and 1800. And have been renovated over and over. Within “the walls”, there are other walls and gates that provide evidence of how the city grew and was protected over the centuries. The collage below shows just a few of the street performers that I saw. The other pics show typical views of the Lucca streets and piazzas.

“The area around the walls is well taken care of, with green grass and trees everywhere along the walls. They have in essence become a park that surrounds the city and blocks out more modern life. Here you can enjoy a bike ride around the entire perimeter, a stroll as you enjoy a gelato or simply a period of rest from sightseeing on one of the many shaded benches that line the main walkway.” from www.discovertuscany.com. The collage below was taken in 30 minutes of people walking, biking, chatting, delivering, strolling, etc. The other pics were taken of and from the wall.

Lucca is called ‘the city of 100 churches”. There are literally too many churches! Some of them have been “de-consecrated” and are being used for other purposes, such as nightly Puccini concerts. I’ve included pics of the three largest churches. We found a small evangelical church outside the walls and have now attended several of their services and activities. I believe that it will be our church home.

Palazzo Pfanner has a beautiful garden that is visible from Le Mura. People often stop to admire the gardens and rest on one of the benches. On our first ride around the walls, we also had music from a wedding celebration! And on one of my last days of the trip, I finally made it inside of the Palazzo. Click on the pic below to see the Palazzo from the wall, within the gardens and inside the Palazzo.

Learning the language

I spent three weeks at the Lucca Italian School and Jim spent two weeks there. Each weekday we have four hours of class; most of it spent in conversation. I think that both Jim and I learned a lot – and also feel that we have so much more to learn! I can carry out day-to-day conversations at stores and restaurants, but not much further. We want to learn the language so that we can become a true part of the community. But it’s good to know that we can live here with the minimal amount of Italian that we know.

Update on the plan to move to Italy

We made good progress on preparing for our move to Lucca. We met with two local lawyers to discuss our plan and how they can help. We looked at four apartments to get a better sense of the rental market. Although our apartment will be MUCH smaller than our home in Virginia, our standards are still very high for this market. We want crazy things like air conditioning, showers that are big enough to turn around in, and a kitchen that Jim and I can work in together. One had a kitchen that was about 5 feet on each side; one person could cook effectively by literally spinning around – no steps needed! We also saw some very cool features and spaces that have given us the assurance that we will be able to find something that meets are needs/desires and is within our budget. Naturally one of the lawyers has a family member that is a realtor…

Our timeline has been accelerated:

  • April 4, 2019: JoAn retires and starts preparing the house for sale and doing some serious downsizing!
  • May/June 2019: Visit Lucca to confirm our decision and study Italian.
  • Fall 2019: Put our house on the market. Gather sentimental belongings and wine that will age well and take them to Florida. Establish our Florida home base, living with Derek, our son.
  • November 2019: Return to Lucca to select an apartment and get a lease in place.
  • Early 2020: Apply for Italy’s Elective Residence visa.
  • February or March 2020: Move to Lucca, Italy. Plan to stay for 5 to 7 years then return to Florida. Or maybe just stay?

What? Nothing about wine???

We did visit a few wineries and had a couple of special bottles of wine at local restaurants. Check out the pics below.

I hope that you enjoyed this update and the pics from Lucca!

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One month retired…

It’s been a month since I retired. It hasn’t seemed very adventuresome but it has been put very productive.

I’ve been focusing on preparing our house for sale. We’ve taken care of all of the big projects: a new roof, new landscaping, and repaving the driveway next week. One truckload of junk removed from our basement and next week they’ll come for the last ½ truckload. I spent a few days gathering stuff for garage sales and researching how to effectively hold a garage sale which led me to the conclusion that I should not worry about holding garage sales. My plan is to donate all items that are worth less than $50 and sell the other items individually. And I’m trying to focus on the high value items. So, if you are in the market for a pinball machine, stage lighting, collectible trains, or a blue PRS guitar, please let me know!

I’ve been studying Italian and am preparing for our upcoming trip to Italy in mid-May. Not a typical vacation; the focus will be on learning Italian and meeting with locals to prepare for our move. Last year we attended the Lucca Italian School and will be returning for more studies. It’s a nice mixture of learning, fun, and meeting interesting people from around the world. Lots of emphasis on conversation. While in Lucca, we will also meet with several realtors, people who can help with the immigration process, and an accountant. We’ll squeeze in some fun activities and we were very pleased to learn that the annual Cantine Aperte (Open Cellars) will be held during our first full weekend. Across Italy many wineries open their cellars for tastings and special activities. Usually reservations are required for all winery visits and scheduling them can be quite a challenge! Jim is still contemplating which areas we will focus on.

I’ve had several requests from people to post pictures on my blog. No Italy pictures, but here are some pictures of Bald Eagles from Conowingo Dam and a Red-Shouldered Hawk from our back yard. I hope to have some nice pics of Lucca for my next blog update!

On a sad note, Wes passed away this week. Wes and Mickey, my sister, have been companions for several years and I feel like I’ve lost a family member as well. The picture below is from a trip that we took to Scottsdale in 2016 with various “family” members. Wes is now “Br’n & 😎’n” in heaven…

I’m still dreaming about work. I wonder when that will stop???

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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

  1. Wait, you aren’t old enough! (Cleverly disguised version of “How old are you?”) We are too young to retire – but are doing it anyway! Jim and I will both turn 60 in 2019.
  2. Are you Italian? No, neither Jim nor I have Italian blood.
  3. Why Italy? We fell in love with the people, the culture, the history, the art, the food, the wine, and the way of life.
  4. Are you going to buy a cool villa in the countryside? No, we are going to rent a 2 or 3 bedroom apartment in the city center of Lucca for at least a year. After that, we’ll stay in Lucca, move to the countryside, or figure out what is next. In the countryside, I’m afraid that we’d be inclined to stay home and not really integrate into the community. Also in Lucca, you really don’t need a car. Major forms of transportation are walking and biking.
  5. Are you going to buy a tiny car? Eventually, yes. First we need to get our driver’s license. Passing the written test will be tough and it is in Italian. For the first 6 months or a year (still trying to confirm!), we can rent a car whenever needed using our US driver’s license.
  6. Do you speak Italian? Parlo un’po italiano.  I started studying in 2017, using various means and methods. Jim started with a 2-week class in Lucca in 2018. It’s going to take a while to really learn the language.
  7. What about health insurance? The Italian health system is rated very highly but is very different than the US system. It is socialized medicine so is covered by our taxes. You can also buy private insurance, but there aren’t a lot of doctors that take it, because there isn’t a lot of people who spend the extra money for it.
  8. What is the cost of living in Italy? Lucca? Large cities (Rome, Milan, Florence) are similar to the DC area. Small Tuscan towns have lower costs of living. Other regions (Umbria, Marche, …) have even lower costs of living.
  9. What does Derek think? He’s happy for us and looking forward to visiting.
  10. What is Mickey (JoAn’s sister and housemate) going to do? Moving to Italy is our dream, not Mickey’s. She’s currently planning to return to Ohio to live with a dear friend. She expects to have long visits to Italy. I suspect that they will occur in the cold Ohio winter!
  11. Are you taking your dog? No, he’ll stay here with some prior housemates that love him!
  12. What will you do with your house in Virginia? Sell it and most of the contents. Sentimental items, wine that can age, and some other stuff will be stored in Florida.
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My Next Adventure – Intro

We didn’t realize it at the time, but our next big adventure started with this bottle of wine on a rooftop bar in Florence, Italy…

Jim and I had always taken very nice vacations, but had never traveled to Europe together. So in 2014 we set off for a two week trip to Germany and Italy. We had a good time in Germany but were really struck by so many aspects of the Italian culture. Such beauty all around. Amazing art and history. Delicious food and delightful wine. And the people seemed friendly, authentic, and not in a rush. We were hooked.

So our 2014 trip to Europe was followed by a yearly trip to Italy, with some extended to 3 weeks We explored different regions and cities – from the Alps to Rome. But always spending time in Tuscany.

One evening after dinner in 2017 we walked through the town and stopped to browse at the available real estate. We did this occasionally – having fun imagining buying and living in a wonderful castle or spectacular country villa with a vineyard of course! But this evening, Jim spotted a nice house that we could actually afford. We could buy a house like this and retire in Italy. What a grand idea!

So Jim and I starting our preparations for this adventure. I studied the Italian language, learned about visas, and tried to understand the real estate market. Jim studied Italian wine. Seriously… he studied Italian wine and now has several professional-level certificates. And he bought Italian wine. A lot of it. Which he claimed was required for class…

Fast forward to early 2018 when we experienced darker times. Lots of medical tests, an operation, more procedures, and more tests. Fortunately the doctors were able to fix the problems. During this time, Jim and I discussed our dream of retiring to Italy and our priorities began to shift.

In Fall 2018 we returned to Florence to look at some apartments and for two weeks of language school. We decided that we would rent an apartment before buying anything. This would give us a chance to confirm where we wanted to live and be in a better position to purchase the right kind of place. We knew we wanted to live in a small Tuscan town, but weren’t sure of which one. So our first year would be in Florence…

We then headed to Lucca for two weeks of language school – and fell in love with the city. Yep, we found our small (really, medium-sized) Tuscan town. It is as beautiful as the many small but touristy medieval towns that we had visited, but seemed a lot more livable. Stores that sell wine, cheese, and leather purses are really nice, but you also need clothes, dry cleaners, paper products, doctors, and pharmacies.

Lucca’s Chiesa di San Michele in Foro, illuminated by candles

After this visit our excitement continued to grow. Then Jim asked that all important question “What are we waiting for?”

In December 2018 we met with our financial planner who confirmed that we could afford to accelerate our plans. So here’s the high-level plan:

  • April 4, 2019: JoAn retires and starts preparing the house for sale and doing some serious downsizing!
  • Spring 2020: Put our house on the market
  • After home sells: Head to Florida with sentimental belongings and wine that will age well. Establish our Florida home base, living with Derek, my son.
  • Early 2021: Apply for Italy’s Elective Residence visa, rent an apartment in Lucca, and start dealing with the Italian bureaucracy.
  • 2021: Move to Lucca, Italy. Plan to stay for 5 to 7 years then return to Florida. Or maybe just stay?

In this blog, I plan to write about the fun, excitement, frustration, and disappointments that I experience on my next adventure ahead… If you want to follow along, subscribe so that you’ll be notified whenever I post an update – just click on “Follow” at the bottom of this page and provide an email address. No account needed.

JoAn