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Slowing Down with Art: Living in Italy and Falling for Fra Angelico

Living in Italy has changed the way I experience life and art. So much of Italy is old; our city has Roman, Medieval, and Renaissance structures and art. Being surrounded by centuries of art has slowed me down, encouraged deeper looking, and turned curiosity into long-term study rather than fleeting admiration.

Where My Love of Art Began

I have enjoyed art since I was young. On my first trip to Europe at age 17, I encountered works I didn’t fully understand, yet found beautiful and intriguing. Years later, as a senior in college, my schedule finally allowed room for a few “fun” classes alongside my math and science requirements, and I took an Art History course. That class transformed how I looked at art—not just as something beautiful, but as a reflection of its time and place, shaped by the artist’s life and influencing generations to come.

Learning One Artist at a Time

Over the years, museum visits in both the U.S. and Europe deepened that appreciation. After moving to Italy about six years ago, my relationship with Italian art grew more personal and immersive. In 2022, I read The Agony and the Ecstasy by Irving Stone, a historical novel about Michelangelo that inspired a quest to see his surviving sculptures in Italy (and a few beyond). Once I completed that journey, I began studying artists one at a time—Giotto, Botticelli, Leonardo, Raphael, Lippi, and others—allowing each to unfold slowly.

This Year’s Focus: Fra Angelico

This year, my focus (okay… perhaps my obsession) was Fra Angelico. His name may not be as recognizable, but he has completely captured my heart. Living at the transition between the late Middle Ages and the early Renaissance, his work evolved from flatter, more symbolic forms to the more naturalistic, three-dimensional style of the Renaissance. A Dominican monk, Fra Angelico was less interested in spectacle than in creating art for quiet devotion and prayer.

In the fall of 2025, a major Fra Angelico exhibition opened in Florence, split between the Museo di San Marco and Palazzo Strozzi. Jim and I went with a friend from Florence, committing to a full day immersed in his work, with a leisurely lunch in between to reset and reflect. Even so, by early afternoon we were overwhelmed—the exhibition included more than 140 works. My goal was simply to take it all in at an overview level, knowing I would return later to spend more time with selected pieces.

A side note… do you know that there is an illness that occurs in Florence from seeing too much beautiful art. Those inflicted experience rapid heartbeat, dizziness, fainting, confusion, and even hallucinations from overwhelming artistic beauty. It sounds dramatic, but it’s real… google “Stendhal Syndrome”. I’ve never experienced these severe symptoms, but I definitely reach a wall when viewing “too much art” that causes me to lower my gaze to the floor and head to the exit.

And so, we returned to Florence for a two-night stay. I spent one afternoon at Palazzo Strozzi and the next morning at the Museo di San Marco. I also really limited the pieces that I looked at. Jim opted out of my second Fra Angelico deep dive and wandered around the city on his own.

  • Palazzo Strozzi, with lots of banners for the special exhibit
  • Lots of people enjoying the exhibit, including these monks

My favorite part of the exhibition was at the Museo di San Marco which also houses many of his works permanently. The building was once a Dominican convent where Fra Angelico lived. Each monk had a small room, or “cell,” used for sleep, meditation, and prayer. What makes San Marco extraordinary is that Fra Angelico painted frescoes in each cell—not for public admiration, but for the private devotion of the monk who lived there. Most are simple, a few more complex, but all were created to support quiet meditation and prayer.

On that same floor, in the hallway, is Fra Angelico’s most famous fresco, The Annunciation, depicting the angel Gabriel telling Mary that she will bear the Son of God. There are many fascinating technical aspects to this work, but what moves me most is Mary’s gentle expression and the soft, calming colors that create a sense of peace and stillness. Fra Angelico does not paint to impress—he paints to slow the viewer down.

Fra Angelico also created large altarpieces and fulfilled commissions by the wealthy patrons of the day, demonstrating that his deeply contemplative style was equally at home in major public commissions.

Here are three versions of The Annunciation for different places and intended uses:

  • Annunciation of Cortona is an altarpiece intended for display in a church. Lots of gold, deep colors, decorations and complexity.
  • The Annunciation at San Marco is at the entrance to the residents' area of the convent, in the hallway. The monks would see this every day. Gentle colors, simpler composition. No gold.
  • The Annunciation in one of the cells or rooms of the convent. The fresco is even simpler with just the essence of the story, intended for prayer and mediation.
  • Closeup of the Annunciation in a cell. As founder of the Dominican Order, Saint Dominic appears as a model of prayerful contemplation for the friars living in the cells.

Although this exhibit ends on 25 January 2026, many of his works are permanently on display at the Museo di San Marco. If you visit Florence, I strongly recommend that you visit. It is a two-minute walk from the Galleria dell’Accademia which houses Michaelangelo’s David.

Who’s Next?

So, who will I study next? My current plan is Luca della Robbia and Donatello. And yes, Donatello will complete my study of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. 😊

Living in Italy makes this kind of slow, immersive exploration possible. Art here isn’t something you rush through —it becomes a companion over time. Studying one artist deeply, returning again and again, and letting understanding unfold gradually has been one of the great gifts of living here, and it’s a journey I’m grateful to continue.

In closing, here are some of the Christmas lights we saw as a bonus on our weekend visit to Florence. Not all serious art, but also glitzy lights!

  • Christmas tree in front of the Duomo
  • Christmas lights near Piazza Repubblica, where we stayed.
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Alpine Splendor and Verona’s Charms

When people visit Italy for the first time (or two), the biggest destinations that come to mind are Rome, Florence, and Venice. Each has spectacular and unique sights to see – and also lots and lots of tourists. After a few visits to Italy, people often want to visit locations that feel more authentic without the throngs of tourists. We visited two of these locations recently – the Dolomites of Northern Italy’s Alps and Verona, known as the city of Romeo and Juliet. I also visited Mantua (called Mantova in Italy) which is filled with important art and history and seems to be mostly visited by Italian schoolchildren. This blog post will highlight my visits to these lesser-known but wonderful locations.

Diana and Jed are friends from Lucca; they recently purchased a condo in the Dolomites so that they could enjoy the winters skiing. And from their property, they are just a few steps from the ski lifts! They invited Pasquale, Jim and I to visit in April, with a special request – that Pasquale set up a few visits to wineries in the area, using his in-depth knowledge of Italian wine producers. This turned out to be a bit of a challenge because many wineries were unavailable due to “out of season” or they were preparing for Italy’s largest wine show in just a few days – more on this later. We visited three:

  • Weingut Lieselehof – on a beautiful mountainside near a lake. And they have a very interesting “wine museum” that has over 100 different types of grapes growing from all over the world. They study how they grow in this environment and are particular interested in disease-resistant varieties.
  • Markus Prackwieser Gump Hof – a wonderful family-owned winery that weaved the story of family, local history, and hard work together leading up to a wonderful wine tasting. Our favorite winery of the three.
  • Kloster Neustift Abbazia di Novacella – a winery and an abbey together! This was quite a large winery that produces LOTS of different wines. The grounds, abbey and library were gorgeous. Too bad the wine wasn’t as good.

The following day, Jed and Diana took us on a drive around “their mountain”. The views were spectacular and even though it was quite late in the season, we were able to watch people ski. I was surprised to learn that you can ski from town to town and essentially spend all day skiing through the entire area. I was also surprised to learn that the weather could be so warm with snow still blanketed everything. I brought all of the wrong clothes. Diana and Jed are great hosts – they prepared several wonderful meals for us and we even played billiards in their cantina! What a fun visit!

We then headed south to Verona. Jim and Pasquale attended VinItaly, the largest wine event of the year in Italy. It gives them an opportunity to enjoy old favorites, discover hidden gems, and visit with producers and wine lovers. There are thousands of wines to try, and they typically taste (then spit) over 100 wines per day!

While Jim and Pasquale were tasting and spitting, I explored Verona. We have visited Verona several times, so I have already seen the biggest sights (the spectacular Roman arena that is still used today and the fictitious location of Juliet’s balcony from Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet). My objectives during these days were to enjoy the pleasant piazzas and learn more about some of the Veronese artists. I had plenty of time to peek into courtyards, wander the streets, and enjoy a cappuccino at the cafes. And I visited more than a few churches… but I have included pictures of only my favorite: Basilica di San Zeno.

I took a 40-minute train ride south to spend the day in Mantua, “a city surrounded by 3 artificial lakes in the northern Italian region of Lombardy. It’s known for the architectural legacy of the Renaissance Gonzaga rulers, who built the Palazzo Ducale. This imposing building houses the Bridal Chamber, decorated with Andrea Mantegna frescoes.” Unfortunately, no pictures and only 5 minutes were allowed in the Bridal Chamber but I was very pleased with myself for finding a way to visit it for two 5-minute periods!

As I bid farewell to these enchanting places, I carried with me a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to uncover the secrets of this captivating country. Where to next?