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Discovering Spello: The Art of Le Infiorate Festival

In June, Jim and I spent twelve days exploring Umbria, the stunning region just southeast of Tuscany. I shared plenty of photos on Facebook of the towns we visited — each beautiful in its own way — but I held back on Spello. Why? Because what we experienced there simply cannot be captured in a few pictures or captions. Spello deserves more. It deserves more — a story.

And that story is about Le Infiorate.

Every year, on the feast of Corpus Domini (Corpus Christi), the streets of Spello are transformed into a living canvas—flower carpets that stretch for meters, designed and laid down entirely by hand using flower petals, leaves, and seeds. No glue or adhesives are allowed; instead, water is misted on to keep the petals fresh and in place. The effect is dazzling: sacred art underfoot, created in the middle of the night, and gone by sunset the next day. The official website is https://www.infioratespello.it/.

Here’s a brief overview of the main events of Le Infiorate:

  • Saturday Morning–Afternoon: Local groups mark the street with large design templates and set up tents to cover the designs from wind and rain.
  • Saturday starting at 6pm: Volunteers begin work and continue through the night, preparing thousands of flower petals, carefully separating colors and textures, then placing petals by hand onto the designs using tweezers, cards, and their hands — with plenty of chatting, singing, and sharing food.
  • Sunday at 8am: All designs must be completed, because the judges start their walk through town assessing each carpet in several categories.
  • Sunday at 11am: A religious procession passes over the flower carpets, a symbolic act that also marks the end of their brief lifespan.
  • Sunday Evening: The streets are cleaned, and the petals are swept away, leaving only memories—and lots of photos—of this fleeting, floral art.

We arrived on Saturday morning and, to our surprise, discovered that our apartment was right along the procession route. Throughout the day, we explored the town and saw around 60 different flower carpets designs. However, we paid special attention to the one just outside our door. I used photos of that particular design to illustrate the Infiorate process.

There is a tremendous amount of work needed to prepare the flowers, so some groups invite visitors to help. We found one of these groups and helped for about an hour. So much fun to participate in the activity!

The designs are created and judged in four categories:

  1. CARPETS / QUADs: flower displays of at least 24 square meters that represent a religious theme in a figurative, abstract, or symbolic manner. These dimensions are reduced for particular narrow streets.
  2. FIGURATIVE CARPETS: flowered carpets measuring at least 12 linear meters or 12 square meters, but less than 24 square meters, in which at least one figurative element is present.
  3. UNDER-14: flowered carpets measuring at least 12 square or linear meters created by groups whose members are under 14 years of age.
  4. GEOMETRIC CARPETS: flower carpets of at least 12 linear meters, in which the repetitiveness of the shapes prevails.

Here are pictures of designs in each of these categories, along with some street scenes.

Another flower contest, Finestre, balconi e vicoli fioriti, is also held that brings color and creativity to windows, balconies, and alleyways. Displays are judged on beauty, originality, and how well they highlight the town’s historic architecture. These blooms give Spello a lasting charm. Here are some photos that capture that beauty.

If you are considering visiting Spello for Le Infiorate, here are a few tips for you:

  • Go! It is worth it!
  • The 24-hour period from 4pm Saturday to 4pm Sunday gives you an opportunity to watch (and participate!) in the preparation activities, see the completed designs, and watch the procession. If you can only go on Sunday, get there as early as possible, preferably well before 8am.
  • Stay in the town of Spello if possible. I made reservations six months in advance and there were few rooms available. Plan early, but also check for openings later if that is your only choice.
  • Reserve a parking space online then walk into the city. We brought only what we would need for the two nights, because the hills are steep!
  • Be prepared for crowds and focus on the beauty and community spirit instead.

Le Infiorate may last only a single weekend, but the spirit of creativity, community, and beauty lingers all year. Whether you come for the fleeting floral carpets or stroll through flower-filled alleyways in another season, Spello offers something truly special. It’s a town that celebrates art, honors tradition, and welcomes visitors with open arms—and, of course, plenty of petals.

We’re so grateful to have been a small part of it.

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Alpine Splendor and Verona’s Charms

When people visit Italy for the first time (or two), the biggest destinations that come to mind are Rome, Florence, and Venice. Each has spectacular and unique sights to see – and also lots and lots of tourists. After a few visits to Italy, people often want to visit locations that feel more authentic without the throngs of tourists. We visited two of these locations recently – the Dolomites of Northern Italy’s Alps and Verona, known as the city of Romeo and Juliet. I also visited Mantua (called Mantova in Italy) which is filled with important art and history and seems to be mostly visited by Italian schoolchildren. This blog post will highlight my visits to these lesser-known but wonderful locations.

Diana and Jed are friends from Lucca; they recently purchased a condo in the Dolomites so that they could enjoy the winters skiing. And from their property, they are just a few steps from the ski lifts! They invited Pasquale, Jim and I to visit in April, with a special request – that Pasquale set up a few visits to wineries in the area, using his in-depth knowledge of Italian wine producers. This turned out to be a bit of a challenge because many wineries were unavailable due to “out of season” or they were preparing for Italy’s largest wine show in just a few days – more on this later. We visited three:

  • Weingut Lieselehof – on a beautiful mountainside near a lake. And they have a very interesting “wine museum” that has over 100 different types of grapes growing from all over the world. They study how they grow in this environment and are particular interested in disease-resistant varieties.
  • Markus Prackwieser Gump Hof – a wonderful family-owned winery that weaved the story of family, local history, and hard work together leading up to a wonderful wine tasting. Our favorite winery of the three.
  • Kloster Neustift Abbazia di Novacella – a winery and an abbey together! This was quite a large winery that produces LOTS of different wines. The grounds, abbey and library were gorgeous. Too bad the wine wasn’t as good.

The following day, Jed and Diana took us on a drive around “their mountain”. The views were spectacular and even though it was quite late in the season, we were able to watch people ski. I was surprised to learn that you can ski from town to town and essentially spend all day skiing through the entire area. I was also surprised to learn that the weather could be so warm with snow still blanketed everything. I brought all of the wrong clothes. Diana and Jed are great hosts – they prepared several wonderful meals for us and we even played billiards in their cantina! What a fun visit!

We then headed south to Verona. Jim and Pasquale attended VinItaly, the largest wine event of the year in Italy. It gives them an opportunity to enjoy old favorites, discover hidden gems, and visit with producers and wine lovers. There are thousands of wines to try, and they typically taste (then spit) over 100 wines per day!

While Jim and Pasquale were tasting and spitting, I explored Verona. We have visited Verona several times, so I have already seen the biggest sights (the spectacular Roman arena that is still used today and the fictitious location of Juliet’s balcony from Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet). My objectives during these days were to enjoy the pleasant piazzas and learn more about some of the Veronese artists. I had plenty of time to peek into courtyards, wander the streets, and enjoy a cappuccino at the cafes. And I visited more than a few churches… but I have included pictures of only my favorite: Basilica di San Zeno.

I took a 40-minute train ride south to spend the day in Mantua, “a city surrounded by 3 artificial lakes in the northern Italian region of Lombardy. It’s known for the architectural legacy of the Renaissance Gonzaga rulers, who built the Palazzo Ducale. This imposing building houses the Bridal Chamber, decorated with Andrea Mantegna frescoes.” Unfortunately, no pictures and only 5 minutes were allowed in the Bridal Chamber but I was very pleased with myself for finding a way to visit it for two 5-minute periods!

As I bid farewell to these enchanting places, I carried with me a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to uncover the secrets of this captivating country. Where to next?

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Rediscovering Northern Italy: Exploring Familiar Cities with Fresh Eyes

Our recent 4-day journey through several cities of northern Italy brought us back to familiar places, each with a unique purpose. In Bologna, our mission was Michelangelo; in Modena, it was all about balsamic vinegar; Parma beckoned us with Leonardo da Vinci, and Milan offered a wine-tasting adventure for Jim and another rendezvous with Michelangelo for me. Our final stop in Alba was a truffle extravaganza.

After the description of each visit, I’ve included photos with captions – most from Bologna and Alba.

Bologna

We have been to Bologna several times for short visits but never stayed long enough to really get to see the city. For this trip I wanted to see three sculptures by Michelangelo. A year or so ago I read “The Agony and the Ecstasy” by Irving Stone, a historical fiction about Michelangelo. It talks about each of the sculptures he made, the challenges, the circumstances, the subjects, etc. At the end of the book there is a list of all the sculptures and other art that he created that are still available to be seen; seeing each of the sculptures that are in Italy has become my objective. When Michelangelo was still fairly young, he created three statues for the Basilica di San Domenico. They are part of a large monument containing the remains of Saint Domenico. It is interesting to see Michelangelo’s statues intermixed with other artists’ work – you can see how Michelangelo’s style and capabilities are so much different than the other artists.

We were surprised to learn that the day that we arrived was the biggest festival day of the year in Bologna. There were many events in Piazza Maggiore in the city center, including music, dancing, drums, flag throwing and even fireworks! We were both quite surprised that they were going to do fireworks in the middle of a historic square but they certainly did; we saw fireworks that were let off from the ground 100 meters from us and on top of a historic building

On our earlier visits to Bologna, we were disappointed in the number of graffiti, the random mix of new and old buildings near the city center, and the general grittiness of the city. We saw too much graffiti, but also saw more beauty during a two-hour walking tour that helped us to understand the history of the city. For example, we learned that Bologna was bombed heavily during World War 2. Today you might see a beautiful old building but it was likely restored after the war and then next to it is a new building because the earlier building was totally destroyed.

I have a much better sense of Bologna and look forward to returning in the future.

Modena

Next, we headed to Modena, a small town about an hour from Bologna with one simple objective: visit Acetaia Cavedoni, a small farm that we’ve visited several times before. They make balsamic vinegar and we have been on their tour several times (see my friends’ blog post that describes the tour and how balsamic is made. Fascinating!) Today our goal was simply to buy some balsamic for ourselves and for our friends and to catch up with the owners. A bonus was the beautiful grapevines that are turning color for autumn.

Parma

You may not have recognized the name of Parma but you certainly know its primary product – Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, which is very different than “Parmesan” cheese. Parmigiano Reggiano DOP can only be made in the province of Parma. Today we were not visiting to learn about the cheese or even buy some, but to see a particular painting by Leonardo da Vinci. As I was planning this trip, this painting popped up and I was transfixed. The painting is called “La Scapigliata” and I love the precise detailing of the face and the use of shadow, next to the sketch-like hair and torso. How does this work together? No idea, but it does! The painting was in one of several museums located in a huge palazzo (palace) that was owned by the Farnese family. The surprises were the incredible wooden theater, built for a visit of Cosimo de Medici, and an incredible library that is still used by students of the University of Parma and others.

Milan

Our next destination was Milan. Jim would be meeting two friends from Lucca at a wine tasting. They tasted about 100 wines in four hours. How do they do that? Well, they don’t drink each of the tastes, but rather take a small amount then spit it out. Then they talk about it (a lot)!

My objective was to see a Michelangelo statue at Castello Sforzesco called Pietà Rondanini. A Pietà (Italian meaning “pity” or “compassion”) is a subject in Christian art depicting the Virgin Mary cradling the body of Jesus Christ after his descent from the cross. Michelangelo created three different Pietàs… one at the beginning of his career (in the Vatican), one mid-career (now in Florence) and one unfinished as he was working on it when he died (now in Milan). Each shows Mary’s sorrows as a mother grieving the loss of her son while also understanding the special spiritual nature of His life. Each is profound, but I have to say that the one in Florence is my favorite.

BTW, there are 33 statues by Michaelangelo in Italy; I’ve now seen 27 of them!

There was also lots of other museums within Castello Sforzesco. My plan was to see the Pietà, check out the Castello for a while, then walk to the Duomo (Cathedral). I spent way too much time at the Castello, so just headed back to the hotel. I met Jim after his wine tasting and then we headed to our final destination for this trip.

Alba

We stayed between Milan and Alba at Il Cascinalenuovo that they describe as a “restaurant with rooms.” This is a Michelin-starred restaurant with a few rooms that allow you to stay on property so that you don’t need to drive after a lengthy meal with wine. It met our needs perfectly. This is white truffle season and we splurged for a multi-course meal that included white truffles as a part of each course. Still, my favorite was the simple pasta with those wonderful truffles on top. The most interesting was a small piece of Robiola cheese, a bit of pepper and olive oil, and truffles – how can something so simple be SOOOO good?

So, what is a truffle? Truffles are edible fungi that grow underground near the roots of certain oak trees. They have a very distinct look—that sort of resembles a dark, small, lumpy rock or potato—and a flavor that’s savory, earthy, and completely unique. Some describe the aroma and flavor as a cross between honey and garlic. Actually, the aroma is much stronger than the taste and is the driving aspect of the experience. There are different types grown in various locations in the world, but most people would agree that the White Truffles from Alba are the best in the world. I do need to add that they are quite costly, so eating truffle shavings is truly a special experience!

Alba has a Truffle Fair each October where they sell these truffles to people who come from across the world. This is our third time visiting the Truffle Fair and we planned to buy two truffles – one for us and one for a friend. We found our truffles (36 and 41 grams, respectively), enjoyed the fair, then headed for home. We enjoyed several meals with our truffle and I was even able to duplicate the cheese dish for some friends that visited a few days later.


Retiring in Italy has allowed us to embark on numerous adventures throughout Italy and Europe. It has been a joy to revisiting our some of our favorite cities, uncovering new layers of history and experiences with each return.

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Is JoAn still blogging?

It has been 159 days since my last blog post…  Here’s where I should provide a compelling reason, but “I’ve been too busy” just seems lame! Just a few years ago I worked full time, volunteered weekly, was a serious birder, and planned fabulous trips to Italy. I suppose the best explanation is that I am now living “La Dolce Vita” at a (slower) speed than ever before. Why blog when I could visit with friends? Have an apertivo? Take a walk around the city? Play a game of Mahjong?

So, this blog post is going to be my “catch up” blog that gives a quick overview of our special visitors, recent trips, winery visits, and an Italian wedding. I’ll finish up with some updates on day-to-day life in Lucca.

Special Visitors

Visit from Dave, Jill, and their friends

Dave, a former colleague of JoAn’s, visited Lucca for four days with Jill, his wife, and their friends. They had visited Lucca several times, but never stayed here before. We loved showing them our city and they were even here for Lucca’s biggest procession of the year. (September)

Visit from Mickey and several of her friends

Now this was a complicated visit! Mickey, my sister, and Vicki, her best friend, stayed for a month and her five friends stayed for two+ weeks. Their trip included day trips to Florence, Cinque Terre, Pisa, and a nearby winery. They all travelled by train to Rome for several days, including a trip down to Pompeii. Of course, we spent a good amount of time wandering through Lucca as well. I suppose the trip would have been better if some of them didn’t miss a train connection and if two of them didn’t get COVID! Despite the challenges, it was wonderful to spend time with my sister and her friends. (October)

Visit from Derek and Dani

We had a short visit from Derek, our son, and Dani, his girlfriend, in November. After their short trip to Dublin, we prepared a traditional American Thanksgiving and shared with it them and some local American friends. We spent a day in Florence with them and another day at a winery in Chianti. A short but sweet visit! (November)

Recent Trips

Trip to Val D’Aosta and Piedmont with Gary and Ilene

An 8-day trip with four people in a Mini Cooper required planning and an installation of a luggage carrier.  We headed way up north in Italy to Monte Bianco/Mont Blanc. We explored the area… and struggled with all of the French words and pronunciations. Then we headed to Piedmont region where the emphasis was on winery visits and the famous Alba White Truffle. But my favorite activity was the visit to the Hazelnut farm! (October)

Trip to Lisbon

Mickey, Vicki and I went to Lisbon for a few days. Why Lisbon? Megan, my niece, and her family moved to Lisbon in early 2020. In the meantime, her daughter has grown from a baby to a pre-schooler full of energy and her own personality. AND Megan had a baby boy. So, we enjoyed seeing Lisbon with Megan and Ben as well as hanging out with them and the children. We even saw the house that they purchased and the big renovation plans for the next year or two. (November)

Trip to Bolzano for their Christmas market

Jim and I took a two-day trip to Bolzano in Northern Italy to enjoy the biggest Christmas market in Italy and to see the area. I posted a description (in Italian and English) and a bunch of pictures on my Facebook page here. (December)

Winery Visits

La Sala Winery with friends from Virginia

I connected with Bill on Facebook before his month-long trip to Lucca because we had mutual friends, the owners and staff of Pazzo Pomodoro, our favorite Italian restaurant in Virginia! Jimmy, one of the owners, was going to be in Florence and planned a lovely wine tasting at La Sala in the Chianti Classico region. Bill, Jim and I jumped into our Mini Cooper and met Jimmy, family, and friends at La Sala. We enjoyed a wonderful wine tasting including our second-ever barrel tasting. We enjoyed a lunch nearby then wandered to the nearby town of Panzano. We had a wonderful time getting to know Bill and shared a passion for older Italian wines. (July)

Barone Ricasoli winery with friends from Lucca

This wine tour came in four parts – castle tour with incredible history, wine making tour, wine tasting, and then a four-course lunch with wine pairings.  I recruited Gary, Ilene, Guy and Lita to accompany us and we headed deep into the Chianti Classico region. This castle was built between Florence and Siena so that the Florentines could keep a watchful eye for any invaders from Siena. Incredible history, fabulous views, and delicious wine and food. It was such a lovely day that we repeated it with Derek and Dani! (July)

Tempranillo Wine Festival in Tuscany???

The Beconcini winery discovered Tempranillo wines on their property a few years after they purchased it. Tempranillo is native to Spain so there are several theories about how it ended up in Tuscany. I like the one that has the Spanish pilgrims bringing it here on their journeys. However it got here, we like their wine! Each Fall after harvest, this winery holds a festival where many people from the area come to enjoy a great meal and their delicious wine. Last year we went with Gary and Ilene. The event was so much fun that Ilene spread the word amongst the expat community here and there were about 20 expats from Lucca at the event. Thanks for the picture, Ilene.  (September)

Italian Wedding

Rebecca and Nicola’s Wedding

Rebecca and Nicola, Italian friends, own Vinarkià our favorite wine-cocktail-dinner bar that is steps from our front door. We met them the week that they opened in 2020 and have developed a strong friendship with them. We were thrilled to attend their wedding in August. Many of the traditions were similar (but not identical) to those in America and then there were some surprises for us too. Mostly we were just delighted to attend their beautiful ceremony with their family and friends. (August)

Day-to-Day Life

  • Italian language. Jim and I are continuing to study the Italian language, each working with a tutor one-on-one. I am working on becoming more comfortable using the grammar that I know, rather than learning new grammar. For my homework I read an article than write a few paragraphs about a related subject. Topics are varied from the structure of our governments to pieces of art. During our one-hour session, we discuss the topic, mistakes that I made in my writing, and work on my pronunciation. I’m now able to chit chat with Italians about lots of different topics and my stress level is down when talking on the phone. I hope that with a few more years of study I should be comfortable have substantial conversations with Italians – at their speed and with ample use of hand movements!
  • My knee. I’m approaching the one-year anniversary of my total knee replacement. I’m still slow on steps but my knee is no longer holding me back from exploring Lucca or any towns that we visit. I average about 7000 steps a day and have hit 17000 several times post-surgery. I’m satisfied with that!
  • Mahjong. This game has always interested me but I really had no idea how to play it. Several women expats in Lucca have begun playing weekly. Most of us are newbies, so it is a low stress learning environment. I’m having lots of fun learning the game and spending time with these friends – and have even gotten Mahjong a few times!

We are about a week away from Christmas and are currently staying busy enjoying the local activities and decorations, doing a bit of shopping and planning a lovely meal with friends. Jim and I hope that you have wonderful Christmas and New Year’s celebrations. One of my resolutions will surely be to blog more regularly!

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Our first visitors from America!

At the end of September 2021, Derek, our son, and Dani, his girlfriend, came to visit. It’s been 18 months since we’ve seen Derek or any family member, so you can imagine that we were quite thrilled to see them. We had a wonderful time with them and visited some new sites and some familiar ones.

Pickup in Rome. Derek and Dani flew into Rome and were set to arrive early in the morning. So Jim and I drove down the day before and stopped at Tarquinia, an hour north of Rome on the coast. The city is known for their Etruscan tombs and Etruscan Museum. I’ve seen a lot of Etruscan stuff, but I was surprised at the beauty and quantity of these tombs! In this necropolis there are 22 different underground tombs that you can look into with beautiful painted walls. Each tomb has a modern building covering the tomb with steps going down. Lighting was not good (to protect the paintings), so I’ve included one from the town’s museum, which was moved for accessibility and protection. I’ve also included a picture of a decoration from one of their temples. Keep in mind that these are from the 4-6th centuries BC!

The next morning Derek and Dani arrived on time. After more than a few hugs we were off to Sorrento where we planned to spend 5 nights.

Sorrento, Amalfi Coast, and Capri. None of us had ever been to this region so we were excited to explore the cities, the views, and the sites. While approaching Sorrento Jim stopped for a view of the city… the view was a great first impression, the traffic not so much!

We headed to Capri Island the next day… joining a boat trip from Sorrento, went around Capri, a short swim break and then a stop at one of the marinas. We visited the town of Capri, filled with shops selling beautiful (and overpriced!) souvenirs. Jim and I enjoyed wandering through the small streets while Derek and Dani headed to another marina to check out some of the boats. The wait to see the famous Blue Grotto was over an hour, so everyone on our boat agreed to skip it. Instead the captain stopped at two of the lesser known, but equally beautiful grottos, and Derek, Dani and many of the others jumped into the water to check them out.

The next day we headed to Pompeii where we spent hours wandering through the city. “Pompeii is a vast archaeological site in southern Italy’s Campania region, near the coast of the Bay of Naples. Once a thriving and sophisticated Roman city, Pompeii was buried under meters of ash and pumice after the catastrophic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 A.D. The preserved site features excavated ruins of streets and houses that visitors can freely explore.” (from Google) I was struck by the size of the city and how well preserved everything is. There were so many details here and there that really gave you a sense for life in an early Roman city. I definitely want to spend more time here.

And the next day we had another boat trip planned – leaving from Sorrento and going along the Amalfi Coast. My knee was too sore at this point, so Jim and I opted to stay in Sorrento while Derek and Dani headed back to the boat. They had a great time, seeing several small towns and popping into the water at a few swimming spots. Each evening of our trip, we had dinner at one of the restaurants that featured local delicacies and a good wine list.

Chianti. We had planned for one more day in the Sorrento area, but we were all ready to move along. So we headed towards home, stopping for a night in Castellini in Chianti. This small town holds special meaning for Jim and me. In 2016 we stayed here and used it as a base to explore this part of Tuscany. One evening after dinner as we wandered through the town, we paused to look at the available real estate in one of the realtor’s window. That was the evening that we realized that living in Italy would be affordable for us and planted the seed to “retire in Italy someday”. At the time, we expected that to be a decade or so away, but why wait???

We were in Chianti, so naturally we visited a winery and some of the nearby towns.

Next stop, Lucca! Derek and Dani were likely tired of hearing us talk about what a wonderful city Lucca is to live in and they now had an opportunity to check it out. They stayed in Lucca for a week… we spent quite a bit of time in town, but also used it as a base for day trips. I’ve included some photos of our time with them, but they also visited a nearby cave in the mountains, took a cooking class, and visited the Irish Pub (in Lucca???) multiple times. You’ll need to ask them if Lucca lived up to the hype from Jim and me…

Derek and Dani then left Lucca and wandered around Europe for another two weeks, visiting Prague, a small German town, a few places in Switzerland, Chamonix, and Milan.

It was wonderful to spend time with Derek, to really get to know Dani, and to show them some of the aspects of Italy that we enjoy so much. We are looking forward to future visits from our family and friends!